İsmet Baba, Kuzguncuk

İsmet Baba, Kuzguncuk

There are restaurants you visit, and then there are those you remember — not just for the food, but for the way they hold time still for a while. İsmet Baba is one of the latter.

Perched quietly in Kuzguncuk, a neighborhood that feels like the city’s slow-beating heart, İsmet Baba is not flashy. It doesn't have a trendy menu, reinvented cocktails, or Instagram-perfect plating. What it does have is soul. The kind of soul that seeps into your glass of rakı as the sun folds itself into the Bosphorus.

Here, the meze arrives fast, with no need to order — a parade of tradition laid out in white porcelain: fava, stuffed mussels, sea beans, eggplant salad. Everything tastes slightly of salt and memory. The fish is fresh, grilled simply, and served with the confidence of decades of doing things the right way.

The staff doesn’t hover. They know why you’re here. To eat slowly, to listen to the water, maybe to remember something — or someone.

It’s not just a meal; it’s a conversation between past and present, carried by the breeze over Kuzguncuk’s red rooftops.

If you're looking for a sleek culinary experience, look elsewhere. But if you're chasing that fleeting, bittersweet flavor of Istanbul — equal parts sea, smoke, and silence — a pinch of Bosphorus, if you will… then İsmet Baba is waiting.

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Favourites of Lilybeth:

Levrek Marin: Basically marinated sea bass, a classic meze of Istanbul. Thin slices of sea bass fillet “cooked” in lemon juice, olive oil, and often flavored with black pepper and thinly sliced onions.

Lakerda: Made from thick cuts of tuna-like torik — the mature, fatty cousin of bonito — lakerda is often called “Istanbul sashimi,” though that label feels almost too modern. A centuries-old dish from Byzantine and Ottoman tables, served simply: a few translucent slices, perhaps a sliver of raw red onion, and always, no lemon.

Ezine Cheese: The quiet backbone of a rakı table. Made from a mix of sheep’s, goat’s, and cow’s milk and aged in the winds of the north Aegean, it offers a creamy bite with a briny, slightly grassy depth. Not just “feta,” but a white cheese traditionally enjoyed with rakı.

Calamari: Lightly fried, crispy outside and tender inside. A classic rakı companion that tastes like a golden kiss from the sea.

Arugula Salad (Roka Salata): Crisp and peppery, this simple salad cleanses the palate and refreshes the senses, balancing the rich flavors of meze and fish.

Smoked Eggplant (Köz Patlıcan): Tender and creamy with a slightly charred aroma, this smoky delight evokes the warmth of traditional Turkish kitchens and adds soulful depth to the table.

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Rakı Recommendations – The Spirit of the Table

When it comes to rakı, the choice can set the tone for the entire evening.

For those who seek a premium experience, Beylerbeyi Göbek stands as a top-tier option. Its rich, velvety texture and deep anise aroma make it a luxurious companion to the mezze parade — truly a celebration in every sip.

On the other hand, Lilybeth’s choice is the beloved Efe Gold: approachable, smooth, and perfectly balanced. It’s the rakı for those who want quality without pretense, the kind that invites long conversations and easy laughter.